If you are a man of a certain age, you probably remember the era of rock-hard gel, crunchy spikes and hair that looked like it had been dipped in varnish. For an entire generation, "styling" meant one thing: squeeze a fistful of gel onto your palm, rake it through your hair and hope for the best. Fast forward to today and the landscape has changed beyond recognition. The modern man has access to a dizzying array of products — clays, pomades, waxes, creams, sea salt sprays and powders — each designed for a specific look and hair type. This is the story of how men's hair styling evolved from a one-product world to a nuanced art form.
The 2000s Gel Era — More Is More
The late 1990s and early 2000s were the golden age of hair gel. The metrosexual movement, popularised by style icons like David Beckham, brought men's grooming into the mainstream for the first time. Suddenly, it was not just acceptable but expected for men to care about their appearance. And the weapon of choice was gel — lots and lots of gel.
The aesthetic was unmistakable: wet-look spikes, slicked-back styles with a mirror-like sheen, or the infamous frosted tips. Products like Dax Wax, L'Oreal Studio Line and Shockwaves Ultra Strong dominated bathroom shelves. The hold was extreme, the shine was blinding, and the flexibility was nonexistent. Touch your hair after applying these products and you would hear an audible crunch. Run your fingers through it? Absolutely not.
The gel era had its virtues. It introduced millions of men to the very concept of hair styling and broke down the stigma around male grooming. But it also had a significant downside: the products were harsh, often loaded with alcohol and synthetic chemicals that dried out the hair and scalp. The rigid, immovable styles looked increasingly dated as fashion moved toward more natural, relaxed aesthetics. By the late 2000s, the writing was on the wall. The gel era was coming to an end.
Today's Trend — “I Woke Up Like This”
The modern approach to men's hair styling can be summed up in a single phrase: effortless effort. The goal is hair that looks natural, textured and slightly tousled — as if you rolled out of bed looking perfect, even though achieving that look actually requires skill and the right products. The matte finish has replaced the wet-look shine. Movement has replaced rigidity. The hair should look alive, not lacquered.
This shift mirrors broader cultural changes. The hyper-groomed metrosexual aesthetic gave way to a more relaxed, authentic sensibility. Today's style icons — from actors like Timothee Chalamet and Brad Pitt to footballers like Jack Grealish — favour styles that look organic and individual rather than sculpted and uniform. The message is clear: look like yourself, only better.
For barbers, this shift has been transformative. It demands a deeper understanding of hair textures, product chemistry and styling techniques. A matte, textured crop requires far more skill to execute well than a gel-slicked spike. The barber must work with the hair's natural movement, not against it. And that, in turn, has driven the development of an entire new generation of styling products.
“The best-styled hair is the kind that looks like it was not styled at all.”
— Modern barber wisdom
Product Comparison — Finding Your Match
With so many options on the market, choosing the right product can feel overwhelming. Here is a straightforward comparison of the main categories to help you find your ideal match.
| Product | Hold | Shine | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Gel | Strong to extreme | High (wet look) | Slick-backs, spikes, very structured styles |
| Wax | Medium to strong | Low to medium | Textured styles, messy looks, short to medium hair |
| Pomade | Medium to strong | Medium to high | Classic styles, pompadours, side parts, slick-backs |
| Clay | Medium to strong | Matte (no shine) | Modern textured crops, natural look, thick hair |
| Sea salt spray | Light | None (matte) | Beach waves, pre-styling texture, fine hair volume |
| Hair powder | Light to medium | Matte | Root volume, fine or thin hair, invisible hold |
The key takeaway: there is no single "best" product. The right choice depends on your hair type, the style you want to achieve, and your personal preferences regarding hold and finish. Many barbers recommend having two or three different products at home for different occasions — a clay for everyday wear, a pomade for more formal events and a sea salt spray for casual weekends.
Hair Care Basics — What Every Man Should Know
Great styling starts with healthy hair, and healthy hair starts with proper care. Here are the fundamentals that every man should follow, regardless of hair type or style.
Wash your hair 2–3 times per week, not daily. This is perhaps the most important and most frequently ignored rule. Daily shampooing strips the scalp of its natural oils, leading to dryness, irritation and, paradoxically, increased oil production as the scalp tries to compensate. Washing every two to three days allows the natural oils to nourish and protect the hair while keeping it clean.
Avoid shampoos with sulphates. Sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulphate (SLES) are cheap foaming agents found in most supermarket shampoos. They clean effectively but are extremely harsh, stripping colour, moisture and natural oils from the hair. Sulphate-free shampoos clean gently without causing damage. They cost a little more, but the difference in hair health is dramatic over time.
Use conditioner. Many men skip conditioner entirely, viewing it as an unnecessary extra step. This is a mistake. Conditioner replaces moisture lost during washing, smooths the hair cuticle and makes hair more manageable and easier to style. Apply it from mid-length to ends — avoid the roots, as this can make hair look greasy.
Pat dry, do not rub. Rubbing wet hair vigorously with a towel causes friction damage, leading to frizz and breakage. Instead, gently squeeze and pat the hair dry, or use a microfibre towel which is far gentler on the hair shaft.
A simple rule of thumb: treat your hair the way you would treat a quality wool garment. Gentle cleaning, careful drying, minimal heat and good products will keep it looking its best for years to come.
Beard Care — The Other Half of Grooming
No guide to men's hair products would be complete without addressing the beard. Beard care has exploded in popularity over the past decade, and for good reason — facial hair requires its own dedicated maintenance routine, separate from the hair on your head.
Beard oil is the foundation of beard care. It moisturises the skin beneath the beard, prevents itching and flaking, softens the facial hair and adds a subtle, healthy sheen. Most beard oils are blends of carrier oils (jojoba, argan, sweet almond) and essential oils for fragrance. A few drops massaged into the beard after showering is all it takes.
Beard balm serves a dual purpose: it conditions like an oil and provides light hold for shaping. Balms typically contain beeswax, shea butter and carrier oils. They are ideal for longer beards that need taming, or for men who want a more structured, groomed look. Apply a small amount, warm it between your palms and work it through the beard from roots to tips.
Beard shampoo is specifically formulated for facial hair, which is coarser and grows differently from scalp hair. Regular shampoo can be too harsh for the beard and the sensitive facial skin beneath it. A dedicated beard wash, used two to three times per week, keeps the beard clean without stripping its natural moisture.
Natural vs Synthetic — The Ingredients Debate
One of the biggest trends in men's grooming is the shift toward natural and organic ingredients. Brands are increasingly reformulating their products to replace synthetic chemicals with plant-based alternatives. But is natural always better?
The answer is nuanced. Natural ingredients like beeswax, shea butter, coconut oil and kaolin clay have genuine benefits: they tend to be gentler on the hair and scalp, less likely to cause irritation and more environmentally sustainable. Many men also prefer the subtle, natural fragrances derived from essential oils over the strong synthetic scents of traditional products.
However, natural does not automatically mean superior in every category. Some synthetic ingredients, such as certain polymers used for hold and heat protection, simply do not have effective natural equivalents yet. The best modern products often strike a balance — using natural base ingredients for conditioning and nourishment while incorporating carefully selected synthetic components for performance where needed.
The bottom line: read the ingredient list, understand what you are putting on your hair and choose products that work for your specific needs. Do not be swayed purely by marketing labels. A product can be "all natural" and still be wrong for your hair type.
Top Brands — The Barber's Choice
Walk into any serious barbershop and you will find a curated selection of professional-grade products on the shelves. Here are four brands that consistently earn the trust and recommendation of barbers worldwide.
Uppercut Deluxe was founded in Australia in 2010 and has quickly become one of the most recognised names in barber-grade styling products. Their range covers everything from strong-hold pomades to lightweight creams, and the packaging — clean, bold and distinctly masculine — has become iconic in its own right. The Uppercut Deluxe Matt Clay is widely regarded as one of the best matte styling products on the market.
Reuzel was born in the legendary Schorem barbershop in Rotterdam. Created by barbers for barbers, Reuzel offers a comprehensive range of pomades, clays, sprays and grooming products. Their colour-coded tins — green for grease, pink for heavy hold, blue for fibre — make product selection straightforward. Reuzel products are known for their excellent performance, pleasant scents and genuine barbershop pedigree.
Baxter of California takes a more refined, lifestyle-oriented approach. Founded in 1965, it is one of the oldest men's grooming brands still in operation. Their products emphasise skin and hair health alongside styling performance, using high-quality ingredients and sophisticated formulations. The Baxter of California Clay Pomade is a perennial favourite among men who want a natural, matte finish with flexible hold.
Layrite has been a barbershop staple since its founding in the early 2000s in Southern California. The brand is particularly renowned for its water-soluble pomades, which provide classic pomade hold and shine without the difficulty of washing out traditional oil-based products. Layrite's Superhold Pomade is the go-to choice for many barbers when creating classic side parts and pompadours.
Home Styling Tips — Getting It Right Between Visits
Even the best barbershop haircut will grow out and need daily maintenance. Here are some practical tips for keeping your style looking sharp between visits.
Apply product to damp hair, not soaking wet or bone dry. Towel-dried, slightly damp hair is the ideal canvas for most products. The moisture helps distribute the product evenly, and the hair is more pliable and easier to shape.
Use less product than you think you need. This is the single most common mistake men make. Start with a small amount — roughly the size of a thumbnail — warm it thoroughly between your palms and work it through the hair. You can always add more, but you cannot take it away. Over-application leads to heavy, greasy-looking hair that defeats the purpose entirely.
Work from back to front. Start by applying product to the back and sides of the head, where it is needed least, and finish at the front, where you want the most control and definition. This ensures even distribution and prevents the front from becoming overloaded.
Use a blow dryer for volume and direction. A quick blast of medium heat while finger-styling can dramatically improve the shape and volume of your hair. Direct the airflow in the direction you want the hair to fall. For maximum volume, blow dry the roots upward, then let the hair settle naturally before applying product.
Invest in a decent comb or brush. A quality wide-tooth comb or a natural bristle brush makes a noticeable difference in how your hair looks and how products distribute through it. Avoid cheap plastic combs that generate static and snag the hair.
The earliest "pomades" were made from bear fat or apples — the name itself comes from the French word "pomme," meaning apple. Early pomade makers blended rendered animal fats with fruit extracts to create the first hair styling products, centuries before the invention of modern petroleum-based formulations.
